Cycads are not only prone to white spot disease, leaf blight, and coal rot, but they also suffer from a less commonly discussed yet serious condition known as iron rot. This disease can be particularly alarming for plant enthusiasts due to its potential to cause severe damage or even kill the plant if left unchecked.
Iron rot typically occurs when bulbs begin to decay or the root system becomes infected. Although it's not the most common issue, its consequences can be devastating. Mild cases may take several months to recover, while severe infections can lead to complete plant death. One of the primary causes is overwatering or prolonged exposure to rain without proper drainage. Excessive fertilization—especially raw or concentrated manure—can also contribute. Additionally, late wintering-in or low temperatures that cause frost damage can weaken the plant, making it more susceptible. Accidental injuries, such as from handling or pests, can also trigger the onset of this disease.
To prevent iron rot, it’s essential to maintain optimal growing conditions. Improve soil quality, ensure good light exposure, and promote air circulation. Water and fertilize appropriately, avoiding both overwatering and the use of unprocessed or overly concentrated fertilizers. Bring plants indoors on time during colder months to protect them from freezing. Most importantly, always monitor your cycads closely and act quickly if you notice any signs of distress. Disinfect pots and soil using solutions like carbendazim, tetromycin, chlorothalonil, or thiophanate-methyl to reduce the risk of infection.
If you notice symptoms such as sunken areas on the stem, it could indicate stem rot, which often starts at the core of the pith and spreads outward. Yellowing or drying of leaves and leaf stems might signal leaf blight or root rot. If both stem and root issues are present, the entire plant should be removed from the pot, the soil carefully cleaned, and each part treated based on the extent of the damage.
For mild cases where only the top of the stem is affected and the roots remain healthy, carefully remove the rotten parts with a sterilized knife until reaching healthy tissue. Disinfect the pot with potassium permanganate, replant the cycad, and cover only the roots with fresh soil. Dust the cut area with sulfur powder and allow the plant to dry slightly, ensuring no more sap flows out. Gradually increase watering and transition back to normal care. Usually, new suckers will not grow in these cases.
If partial or full root rot is present but the bulb remains intact, trim off damaged leaves and leaf stems, remove the rotted roots, and soak the remaining roots in an antiseptic solution for 1–2 hours. Let them dry before planting in sterilized river sand, keeping the medium dry. Once roots have formed, transfer the plant to regular soil and resume standard care.
In more severe cases where both stems and roots are affected, cut the bulb into 2–4 pieces, dry them thoroughly, and place them in clean river sand. Half of each piece should be buried, while the other half is exposed, and placed in a shaded or semi-shaded area. Keep the sand moist but not soggy. Once new buds appear, the sections can be planted or used for bonsai cultivation.
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