Cycads are not only susceptible to white spot disease, leaf blight, and coal rot, but they also face a serious condition known as iron rot, which deserves the attention of every plant enthusiast. Iron rot is caused by the decay of bulbs and the rotting of the root system. Although it doesn’t occur frequently, its impact can be devastating—mild cases may take months to recover, while severe infections can lead to the death of the plant.
One of the main causes of this disease is overwatering or prolonged exposure to rain without proper drainage. Excessive fertilization, especially the use of raw or concentrated manure, can also contribute to the problem. Another factor is late winter entry into a warm environment, leading to cold damage if the temperature is too low. Additionally, physical injuries from improper handling or accidents can create an entry point for pathogens.
To prevent iron rot, it’s essential to maintain optimal growing conditions and practice good plant care. Improve soil quality, ensure adequate light and air circulation, and water and fertilize appropriately—avoiding both overwatering and over-fertilizing. During winter, bring plants indoors in time to protect them from frost. Most importantly, stay vigilant and observe your plants regularly. If you notice any signs of illness, act quickly to prevent further damage. Sterilize pots and soil using products like carbendazim, tetraconazole, or chlorothalonil before planting.
If you detect symptoms such as sunken areas on the stem, it could indicate stem rot, which typically starts at the center of the pith and spreads outward. Yellowing or drying leaves might signal leaf blight or root rot. If the plant shows signs of both stem and root rot, it’s crucial to remove the entire plant from its pot, clean the roots, and treat the affected areas accordingly.
For mild cases where only the top of the stem is affected and the roots are still healthy, carefully cut away the damaged tissue until reaching healthy parts. Disinfect the pot with potassium permanganate, then replant the cycad with only the roots covered in soil. Dust the cut area with sulfur powder and allow the plant to dry slightly. Gradually increase watering as the plant recovers, and avoid heavy watering until it stabilizes. New suckers may develop, but growth will be limited.
If the roots are partially or fully rotted but the bulb is still viable, trim the affected leaves and stems, remove all rotten roots, and soak the remaining roots in an antiseptic solution for 1–2 hours. After drying, plant the cycad in sterilized river sand, keeping the medium dry. Once new roots form, transfer the plant to regular soil and resume normal care.
In more severe cases where both the stem and roots are affected, cut the bulb into 2–4 pieces, let them dry, and then place them in sterilized river sand. Half of each piece should be inserted into the sand, with the other half exposed, and kept in a shaded or semi-shaded area. Maintain a semi-dry environment. Once new buds appear, the pieces can be planted or used for bonsai creation. This method offers a second chance to revive the plant and preserve its beauty.
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