Plastic Management in New Park
(I) Planting Density of Weeping Willow Trees The weeping willow trees in the park have medium-sized canopies. Although the number of branches per mu is high, most of them grow vertically without interfering with each other, which promotes good air circulation and light penetration. This makes it ideal for planting dense vegetation in gardens to boost productivity. The typical planting spacing is usually 3 meters by 4 meters.
To fully utilize the potential of weeping willow pruning, the park should be designed to a high standard. To improve soil permeability and support rapid root development after seedlings establish themselves, it's recommended to dig trenches that are 1 meter wide and 80 centimeters deep, running from north to south. When digging, the top 30 cm of soil should be placed on one side, and the lower layer on the other. During backfilling, the tillage layer soil should be placed at the bottom, followed by 20 cm of stalks, and 5,000 kg of organic fertilizer per mu. Mix 30 kg of fertilizer with the underlying soil and fill the trench, then water it thoroughly.
(B) Sapling Shaping Technique In the first year of planting, choose large, healthy saplings. After planting, prune the trunk to about 1.2 meters above the ground. Cut 20 cm below the plastic band, and retain only the bud within the band while removing all others beneath it. The final trunk height should be approximately 0.8 to 1 meter. If the sapling is not tall enough, select strong buds at the grafting site as the terminal buds. After cutting, set the trunk at a height slightly above the dry point. Once new growth appears, keep the top stems within the orthopedic zone to form a central leader. Under the trunk, select two opposite strong buds to develop into the first two main branches. Ensure the main branches are adjacent but not overlapping to avoid forming a narrow neck on the trunk.
During the fall of the same year, when the first two main branches exceed 1 meter in length, bend them to an angle of around 70 degrees. At the end of winter, remove competing branches and keep the auxiliary ones. Trim the central leader about 1.2 meters above the first layer of main branches to encourage the growth of the second main branch. The first main branch is no longer pruned once established.
In the spring of the following year, the flattened main branches will sprout new shoots with a spacing of about 20 cm between buds. These upright shoots will grow vigorously. Remove the dense ones and allow the rest to grow, keeping a spacing of 20–30 cm. By autumn, these new shoots will reach over 80 cm and become woody. At this stage, gently twist the branches down to the ground and secure them with string or wire to shape them into a weeping willow (see Figure 1). Be careful not to break the branches during the twisting process. For the extension of the first-layer main branch, also twist it vertically and fix it in place to maintain a horizontal length of about 1 meter.
After this growing season, the main branch cut the previous year will begin to develop into the second main branch. In the top plastic band, keep the central leader while allowing the second main branch to grow. The three main branches should be spaced 120 degrees apart and staggered relative to the first layer. Each of the three main branches should also be bent to 70 degrees, similar to the first layer. At the end of winter, trim the central trunk again, about 1.2 meters above the second layer of main branches, to encourage the third main branch.
Third Year: In spring and autumn, follow the shaping method used for the first main branch to carve and bend the second main branch. Cultivate the third main branch according to the techniques used for the first and second layers. The third layer should have four main branches, spaced 90 degrees apart and staggered with the lower ones. In autumn, when winter pruning occurs, stop retaining the central trunk and control the overall tree height to around 3 meters.
Fourth Year: Follow the shaping methods used for the first and second layers to carve and bend the third-layer main branches. At this point, the entire tree should be fully formed and ready for display.
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