Pulling branches can be done within a single growing season, but the most effective results are achieved during summer and autumn. This is because, compared to branches in spring and fall, the branches do not sprout new growth on their backs during these seasons. In summer and autumn, the branches are more flexible, making them less likely to break when bent. Additionally, pulling the branches disrupts the flow of nutrients, which encourages the accumulation of nutrients throughout the tree—beneficial for flower bud differentiation.
Typically, branches should be angled at 90 degrees or laid horizontally along the ground. Stronger, more vigorous branches should be slanted or shaped in a sag-like manner. The larger the main branch, the greater the angle needed to balance the tree's overall growth potential.
When performing the branch-pulling technique, it’s recommended to use 1- to 2-year-old branches. Before pulling, the branch should be "taken" by gently bending it from the base toward the tip using your left hand to support the next section, while the right hand bends the branch slightly. Then, carefully pull the branch open to the desired angle and adjust its position. For larger main branches, you may need to make three small cuts or open the wood slightly to help with the bending process.
There are several important considerations when pulling branches:
1. The length of the branch being pulled should be over 1 meter. If the branch is too short, alternative methods like cutting back, pressing, or even skipping the operation altogether may be necessary.
2. It’s best to start pulling branches on a 2- to 3-year-old young tree. Avoid doing this all at once; instead, spread the work over multiple years to ensure balanced growth, proper shaping, and better fruit production.
3. After pulling the branch, place a stick behind it to help develop medium and small branch groups. If the branches become too dense, they should be pruned promptly to maintain air circulation and light penetration.
4. Choose the right location to tie the branch. Poor placement can lead to a narrow base angle, drooping branches, or an uneven shape that hinders future growth.
5. When pulling branches, ensure they are evenly spaced and avoid bundling multiple branches together, as this can cause overcrowding and reduce overall tree health.
By following these techniques and considerations, you can effectively manage the growth of your trees, promote better flowering, and ultimately improve fruit yield.
Trauma Cannulated Screw
Cannulated screw is a common internal fixation device in orthopedic surgery.
Working process
During the operation, the Kirschner wire with the hole matching the hollow screw is first drilled into the bone of the fracture site, and then the hollow screw is screwed into the fracture site through the guidance of the Kirschner wire. Finally, the Kirschner wire is pulled out to complete the fixation of the fracture site. In many cases of fracture of the neck and femur, the healing cycle is long, and it usually takes about 30 months to remove the cannulated screws. At this point, the bone and the surface of the cannulated nail are closely connected and firmly connected in the nail path, which leads to defects easily generated by conventional nail removal methods, causing secondary injury at the fracture healing site and causing pain to the patient. Percutaneous cannulated screw internal fixation for femoral neck fractures has the advantages of small trauma, good healing, low rate of femoral head necrosis, and good stability.
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