Summer brings high temperatures and humidity, which significantly increase the risk of cold-season turf diseases. If not properly managed, this can lead to large patches of bald spots on the lawn, seriously affecting its aesthetic appeal. Drawing from years of experience, this article outlines effective summer maintenance practices for cold-season turfgrass.
First, proper mowing is essential. The cutting height should not exceed one-third of the grass height. For mixed lawns containing bluegrass, tall fescue, and ryegrass, the ideal height is 4 to 6 cm. When the grass reaches 8 to 9 cm, it should be trimmed promptly. During hot and humid weather, raising the mowing height slightly—up to 6 to 8 cm—can help reduce bacterial infections and improve the lawn’s disease resistance. Mowing should be done on dry days, after the morning dew has evaporated, as wet conditions promote pathogen growth. A sharp mower blade is crucial; a dull blade can damage the grass, creating wounds that allow pathogens to enter. This can result in white or burnt-yellow patches, and even large areas of dead grass.
After mowing, it's important to remove all clippings and clear away any dead branches to prevent the spread of disease. Proper disposal is key to maintaining a healthy lawn.
Second, fertilization must be carefully planned. The timing, frequency, and rate depend on the type of turfgrass, soil conditions, desired quality, weather, and other factors. Fertilizer is typically applied in spring and autumn, with two applications per season using balanced compound fertilizers. A common ratio is 5:4:3 (N:P:K), at a rate of 40 kg per mu. In summer, to prevent excessive growth, only small amounts of nitrogen are used. Fertilization should be done in conjunction with mowing, and chemical fertilizers must be applied evenly to avoid uneven growth, discoloration, or fertilizer burn. After applying fertilizer, watering is necessary to prevent burning the grass.
Long-term use of chemical fertilizers can lead to soil compaction, reducing water and air penetration. To counter this, organic fertilizer should be applied every two years, preferably during the lawn’s dormant period. Compost, green manure, or well-decomposed manure can be used at a rate of about 1,000 kg per mu. Combining organic fertilizer with rolling helps improve soil structure and root development. If the lawn is uneven, has bare spots, or has thick thatch, organic material should be added to fill in gaps. In summer, spreading sand can also help level the lawn and improve drainage.
Third, watering is critical during hot summer months, especially in northern cities where rainfall is scarce. Watering should be done early in the morning or after 3 p.m., avoiding the midday heat. Each watering should penetrate at least 10 cm into the soil. After fertilizing, water should be applied immediately to prevent damage. It's also important to avoid watering for 48 hours after pesticide application. Before spraying, the lawn should be watered to ensure even distribution of the treatment.
Fourth, pest and disease control is vital. High temperature and humidity weaken the turf’s natural defenses, making it more susceptible to bacterial infections. Poor management, improper grass selection, nutrient imbalances, and incorrect soil moisture or pH levels can all contribute to non-infectious diseases. Common infectious diseases include brown patch, pythium blight, leaf spot, powdery mildew, and rust.
Prevention is key. Resistant grass species, proper soil preparation, and regular maintenance can reduce disease risk. Lime sulfur can be applied twice in late March or early April before the growing season begins, with a two-week interval. Fungicides such as carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, mancozeb, chlorothalonil, triadimefon, and jinggangmycin are commonly used. These should be mixed according to the correct order—wettable powder first, then suspending agent, water, and finally emulsifiable concentrate. Spraying should be done when the grass is dry, ideally after mowing, and avoided during hot midday hours.
In addition to chemical treatments, cultural practices like proper fertilization, controlled irrigation, and regular pruning play a major role in disease prevention. Removing weeds and improving air circulation also help reduce disease pressure.
Pests such as grubs, earthworms, armyworms, and weevils are often controlled with chemical sprays, combined with irrigation to enhance absorption.
Finally, additional maintenance measures may be needed. Over time, the surface of the lawn can become compacted due to frequent use, leading to poor drainage and reduced oxygen availability. Techniques like aeration, top-dressing, and vertical mowing can help restore soil health and promote new growth. Top-dressing with a mix of sand, soil, and organic matter can improve the lawn’s appearance and resilience, especially in areas with uneven surfaces or thick thatch. For severely degraded lawns, full renovation—including soil replacement and reseeding—may be necessary to restore vitality and long-term health.
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