To start with, it's essential to use a soil-free seedbed. Choose a location that is sunny and elevated to ensure good drainage and adequate sunlight. The ideal bed soil should be fertile and free from previous plantings of solanaceous crops (like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants), melons, or cruciferous vegetables for at least five consecutive years. Sandy soil is preferable, and the topsoil layer between 13-17 cm deep should be selected. Avoid using garden soil as it may contain pathogens. To prevent the spread of soil-borne diseases, several disinfection methods can be applied. One common approach is using carbendazim: mix 25–30 grams of 5–30% wettable powder per 1000 kg of soil, dissolve it in water, spray it evenly, mix well, and cover with plastic film for 2–3 days to kill various pathogens like blight. Another method is formalin treatment, where formalin, water, and soil are mixed in a ratio of 1:100:4000–5000, then piled up and covered for 2–3 days before being left to air out. After 1–2 weeks, it’s safe to use. Additionally, seeds can be treated with 0.3% of 50% carbendazim or 50% thiram to prevent disease transmission.
Next, soaking and germination. Soak seeds in warm water (around 55°C) for 15 minutes, then stir until the temperature drops to about 30°C. Let them soak at room temperature for germination. The required time varies by vegetable: cucumbers need 36–48 hours, cabbages and similar plants take 36 hours, eggplants require 6–7 days, peppers need 5–6 days, tomatoes take 2–4 days, and zucchini needs 6–8 days. During germination, small-seeded cruciferous vegetables (like cabbage and radishes) should have their radicles just breaking through the seed coat, while solanaceous crops shouldn’t exceed the seed length. For larger seeds like cucumber, bitter gourd, and wax gourd, sprouts can be short or up to 1–2 cm long.
Third, managing the seedbed. Before sowing, water the bottom thoroughly, then sow the seeds evenly. Once the seeds show dew, apply some medicated soil and cover with shade nets or straw to keep the area moist. Finally, cover with a plastic sheet for a few days until the seedlings emerge. Keep the soil consistently moist during this period, maintaining a temperature of 20–35°C and humidity of 85–90%. When the seedlings appear, mist them gently to help them “wear caps.†Once the seed coats become soft, gently brush them off with a soft brush. Watering should be controlled—only water when the topsoil is very dry. Reduce watering frequency to avoid overgrowth. Apply phosphate fertilizer to improve cold resistance. Ensure proper ventilation to avoid high humidity and harmful gas buildup. Provide as much light as possible, within safe temperature ranges, to promote strong growth. Remove weak seedlings early to prevent overcrowding and premature death. For older seedlings, spray 0.2% Shibao or 300–500 times diluted potassium dihydrogen phosphate per square meter to encourage healthy growth.
Lastly, disease prevention and control. Seedlings are prone to damping-off and blight. As soon as symptoms appear, remove infected plants and apply protective sprays to prevent further spread. Common treatments include a copper ammonium mixture (2 parts copper sulfate + 11 parts ammonium carbonate, mixed and sealed for 24 hours), diluted 400–500 times; 50% carbendazim at 600 times; 75% chlorothalonil or 70% trichlorfon wettable powder at 600–800 times; and 0.1–0.2% copper sulfate solution. After applying pesticides, if the seedbed is too humid, sprinkle grass ash or dry soil to reduce moisture.
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